Monday, February 1, 2016

Essences De Voyage by Victoria's Secret c1994

 In 1994, Victoria’s Secret introduced Essences De Voyage, a line of feminine, vanilla-centric fragrances created as a direct response to the success of a rising competitor: Comptoir Sud Pacifique. Known since 1974 for their luxurious, travel-inspired vanilla perfumes, Comptoir Sud Pacifique had finally expanded into the U.S. market by 1992, selling their "Parfums du Voyage" line at upscale retailers such as Barneys New York. Their fragrances were indulgent and aspirational, priced at $75 for an eau de toilette and the same price for a signature vanilla-scented candle encased in a reusable teak container. CSP's fragrances were generally based on only a few notes, concentrating on herbs and spices rather than floral blends and ingredients were reportedly all natural, not synthetic, which explains their higher cost.

Devotees of the brand included glamorous figures such as Madonna, Princess Caroline of Monaco, Melanie Griffith, Michelle Pfeiffer and Isabelle Adjani. Seeing an opportunity, Victoria’s Secret launched Essences De Voyage as a more accessible alternative—offering the same spirit of luxurious escape at a much lower price point. The collection featured eight different fragrances, with several sharing names directly with Comptoir Sud Pacifique scents, including Vanille Abricot and Vanille Amande.

The name "Essences De Voyage" was an inspired choice. In French, it translates to "Essences of Travel" or "Scents of a Journey." Pronounced as "Eh-sahns duh Vwah-yahzh," the phrase immediately evokes imagery of exotic adventures, sun-drenched beaches, bustling bazaars, and dreamy, far-off destinations. It taps into a deep emotional yearning for escape, romance, and sensory exploration. For women of the 1990s—an era increasingly defined by personal freedom, global travel, and cultural exploration—the idea of capturing the essence of travel in a perfume would have felt both aspirational and intimate. Wearing such a scent wasn’t merely about smelling beautiful; it was about carrying the fantasy of adventure close to the skin.

The early to mid-1990s were a dynamic period often described as the beginning of "global culture." Fashion celebrated individuality, with minimalism and "street style" influencing major designers. Slip dresses, supermodels, and understated luxury dominated the runways, while the grunge movement made authenticity and effortlessness stylish. In perfumery, this translated into a shift away from the loud, heavy fragrances of the 1980s towards softer, more approachable, emotionally resonant scents. Vanilla, with its comforting warmth and sensual sweetness, perfectly matched the mood of the decade. A perfume collection like Essences De Voyage would have resonated strongly with women who sought personal expression and emotional connection through scent, rather than overt status symbols.

Interpreting "Essences De Voyage" in scent would mean crafting perfumes that encapsulated the memories and fantasies of travel. Victoria’s Secret likely infused creamy, rich vanilla notes with tropical fruits, sun-drenched florals, warm musks, and exotic spices—blending familiarity with a touch of the unknown. Each bottle was like a passport to a different destination, wrapped in soft, wearable sweetness.

Vanilla was an especially strategic choice for a lingerie company. Scientific studies in the late 20th century highlighted vanilla’s remarkable psychological effects, noting its ability to evoke feelings of warmth, comfort, and even physical attraction. Vanilla was classified as a natural aphrodisiac, known to trigger feelings of sensuality and emotional security—perfectly aligning with Victoria’s Secret’s branding, which emphasized confidence, beauty, and intimacy.

The vanilla we know today has a rich and storied history. Derived from the pod of the Vanilla planifolia orchid, it was first cultivated by the Totonac people of Mexico. Later embraced by the Aztecs, vanilla became a coveted ingredient, especially when paired with cacao. After European explorers introduced it to the Old World, vanilla's popularity soared. Today, the finest vanilla is grown primarily in Madagascar, Tahiti, Mexico, and Indonesia, each region producing distinct varieties. Madagascar Bourbon vanilla is prized for its deep, creamy sweetness, while Tahitian vanilla is more floral and fruity, offering nuanced interpretations perfect for perfumery.

In the broader fragrance market of the early 1990s, Victoria’s Secret's Essences De Voyage fit seamlessly within a major trend. Vanilla was having a defining moment. Vanilla Fields by Coty, launched in 1993, was a mass-market success, capturing the appeal of cozy, creamy vanilla blended with soft florals and woods. Bath & Body Works introduced Vanilla Bean in 1992, offering a straightforward, gourmand vanilla experience across a range of bath and body products. Other notable introductions included Very Vanilla by The Perfumer's Workshop and Vanilla perfume oil by The Body Shop. Each of these fragrances celebrated vanilla’s versatility—whether paired with fruits, flowers, or woods—and highlighted the era’s fascination with warmth, comfort, and understated sensuality.

Thus, while Essences De Voyage was not entirely unique in its vanilla focus, it cleverly merged high-end aspirations with accessible luxury. By doing so, Victoria’s Secret captured the spirit of the time—offering women an affordable way to experience the dreamy allure of travel, wrapped in the irresistible comfort of vanilla.


Fragrances:

 

Vanille Francaise:


Vanille Francaise —or French Vanilla—is a name that evokes the classic, sophisticated essence of vanilla, synonymous with elegance and refined sweetness. The term "Française" suggests an air of French sophistication, tying the fragrance to a tradition of luxury and artisanal craftsmanship often associated with French perfumes. This name implies a vanilla scent that is not just sweet but also nuanced and complex, capturing the essence of French culinary and fragrance excellence.

In terms of the fragrance’s composition, imagine the top notes unfolding with a creamy, buttery vanilla that immediately envelops you in a warm embrace. This is not a mere sweet scent but one that has a rich, almost custard-like quality, providing a luscious opening. As the fragrance evolves, the heart notes reveal a deeper, more complex vanilla essence. Here, the scent transforms into a richer, more textured experience, reminiscent of vanilla beans that have been freshly scraped and blended into a smooth, creamy mixture. This middle phase offers a slightly smoky, toasted nuance, adding depth to the vanilla’s inherent sweetness.

Finally, as the fragrance settles, the base notes come forward, presenting a robust vanilla profile that lingers with a sophisticated warmth. Here, the vanilla is complemented by subtle hints of creamy caramel and a touch of soft, woody undertones. These base notes ground the fragrance, adding a layer of depth and enduring warmth that makes the scent linger pleasantly on the skin. The overall impression of Vanille Francaise is one of timeless elegance, with a sweet, comforting vanilla that carries a touch of French sophistication.


Fleurs de Vanilla:


Fleurs de Vanilla  translates to "Vanilla Flowers" in English, a name that evokes a vision of delicate blossoms infused with the rich, creamy essence of vanilla. The name suggests a fragrance that marries the sweet warmth of vanilla with the subtlety and elegance of floral notes, creating a scent profile that is both inviting and sophisticated.

Upon first experiencing Fleurs de Vanilla, the top notes present a delicate, airy sweetness. Imagine the scent of freshly picked vanilla flowers, their soft, creamy fragrance mingling with subtle hints of blooming petals. The vanilla here is not overwhelming but rather a gentle whisper of its richness, combined with a light floral undertone that adds a refreshing quality to the scent.

As the fragrance develops, the heart notes come into play, offering a more defined floral bouquet. Picture a blend of vanilla-infused blooms, where the essence of vanilla flowers is complemented by other delicate florals. The heart reveals nuances of white jasmine and honeysuckle, each adding their own layer of sweetness and complexity to the vanilla core. This creates a lush, romantic heart that captures the essence of a floral garden in full bloom.

In the base notes, the vanilla deepens and becomes more pronounced, grounding the fragrance with its creamy, comforting essence. Here, the vanilla is enriched with hints of soft, powdery musk and a touch of warm sandalwood. The result is a smooth, lingering finish that wraps you in a veil of gentle warmth and sophistication. The base notes enhance the vanilla’s natural sweetness with a subtle, earthy depth, creating a harmonious blend that endures long after the initial application.

Overall, Fleurs de Vanilla is a fragrance that elegantly combines the sweetness of vanilla with the subtlety of floral notes, offering a scent experience that is both sophisticated and comforting.


Vanille Peche:


Vanille Peche  translates to "Vanilla Peach" in English, a name that beautifully encapsulates the fragrance's essence: the creamy richness of vanilla paired with the juicy freshness of peach. The name suggests a scent profile that merges the warm, comforting notes of vanilla with the vibrant, fruity aroma of ripe peaches, creating a fragrance that is both sweet and indulgent.

Upon first experiencing Vanille Pêche, the top notes immediately greet you with a burst of succulent peach. Imagine the scent of a perfectly ripe peach, its flesh soft and juicy, releasing a sweet, fruity aroma that is both invigorating and mouth-watering. This initial impression is bright and refreshing, capturing the essence of a sun-ripened peach with its tangy sweetness and just a hint of tartness.

As the fragrance settles, the heart notes begin to emerge, blending the peach with the rich warmth of vanilla. Here, the vanilla comes forward, adding a creamy, smooth quality that perfectly complements the peach's fruity freshness. Picture a velvety vanilla custard infused with fresh peach slices, creating a harmonious balance where the sweetness of vanilla mingles with the succulent fruit. This combination enhances the peach's juiciness while adding a layer of indulgent softness.

In the base notes, the fragrance deepens with the lingering richness of vanilla. The vanilla becomes more pronounced and enveloping, providing a warm, comforting finish to the scent. This base is supported by subtle hints of soft musk and a touch of sandalwood, which add a gentle depth and smoothness to the fragrance. The result is a cozy, lingering aroma that leaves a lasting impression of creamy vanilla and sweet peach.

Overall, Vanille Pêche offers a delightful olfactory experience that combines the juicy, fruity aroma of peach with the rich, creamy essence of vanilla. The fragrance is both inviting and comforting, making it a perfect choice for those who enjoy a sweet, fruity scent with a warm, indulgent twist.
 

Vanille Pomme:


Vanille Pomme translates to "Vanilla Apple" in English, a name that encapsulates the fragrance's essence: a blend of creamy vanilla and the crisp, juicy aroma of apples. The name suggests a fragrance profile that combines the warm, comforting qualities of vanilla with the fresh, vibrant scent of apples, creating a balanced and inviting aroma.

Upon first encountering Vanille Pomme, the top notes immediately present a vibrant burst of crisp apple. Imagine biting into a freshly picked apple—its skin is firm and slightly tart, while the flesh is juicy and sweet. This initial scent is bright and refreshing, capturing the essence of a juicy apple with its natural sweetness and a hint of tanginess. It feels invigorating and uplifting, setting a lively tone for the fragrance.

As the fragrance develops, the heart notes introduce the creamy warmth of vanilla. Here, the vanilla takes center stage, enveloping the apple in a soft, smooth embrace. Picture a vanilla custard or creamy dessert with apple slices delicately folded in. The vanilla adds a rich, comforting depth that enhances the apple's sweetness, creating a harmonious blend where the fruit's crispness is softened by the creamy vanilla.

In the base notes, the fragrance settles into a warm, enduring aroma of vanilla. The vanilla becomes more pronounced and enveloping, providing a soothing and long-lasting finish. Subtle hints of soft musk and a touch of woody notes add a gentle depth to the base, enhancing the vanilla's richness and adding a layer of sophistication to the fragrance.

Overall, Vanille Pomme offers a delightful olfactory experience that melds the crisp, fruity aroma of apples with the creamy, comforting essence of vanilla. The fragrance is both invigorating and soothing, making it an ideal choice for those who enjoy a sweet, fruity scent with a warm, indulgent twist.


Vanille Caramel:


Vanille Caramel translates to "Vanilla Caramel" in English, a name that evokes a rich and indulgent fragrance experience. This name reflects the fragrance's core elements: the smooth, comforting essence of vanilla combined with the sweet, buttery richness of caramel, butterscotch, and a hint of rum. It suggests a scent profile that is both warm and decadent, designed to evoke the sensory pleasure of a sweet, caramel-infused treat.

When you first encounter Vanille Caramel, the top notes deliver an immediate burst of velvety caramel. Imagine a freshly made caramel sauce, warm and golden brown, with its deep, buttery sweetness. This initial scent is rich and indulgent, with a mouthwatering quality that is both inviting and luxurious. The caramel creates an initial impression of warmth and comfort, capturing the essence of a sweet treat.

As the fragrance develops, the butterscotch notes emerge, adding a layer of complexity to the scent profile. Picture the scent of butterscotch candies melting in your mouth, with their creamy, buttery sweetness. This note enhances the caramel's richness, adding a slightly different, yet complementary, dimension of sweetness that deepens the overall fragrance experience.

Next, the vanilla note takes center stage, blending seamlessly with the caramel and butterscotch. Imagine a rich vanilla custard or a creamy vanilla latte—this vanilla is smooth and comforting, providing a warm, soft foundation that complements the sweetness of the caramel and butterscotch. The vanilla adds a depth of warmth and sophistication, balancing the richer notes with its creamy, familiar aroma.

In the base notes, the fragrance reveals subtle hints of rum. This element adds a touch of warmth and a slight boozy nuance to the fragrance, enhancing the overall richness and complexity. The rum note blends with the caramel and vanilla, creating a deep, enveloping scent that lingers and evolves over time. It adds a hint of sophistication and indulgence, rounding out the fragrance with a final, luxurious touch.

Overall, Vanille Caramel offers a decadent olfactory experience, combining the essence of vanilla with the rich, buttery sweetness of caramel and butterscotch, and a sophisticated hint of rum. It evokes a sense of indulgence and warmth, making it a perfect choice for those who appreciate a sweet, comforting fragrance with a touch of opulence.

Vanille Amande:


Vanille Amande  translates to "Vanilla Almond" in English. The name suggests a fragrance that blends the creamy essence of vanilla with the nutty warmth of almonds and hazelnuts. It evokes a scent profile that is both comforting and indulgent, reminiscent of a rich dessert or a cozy, sweet treat.

As you first experience Vanille Amande, the top notes introduce a creamy, rich vanilla. Picture the essence of vanilla bean pods—sweet, warm, and slightly floral. This vanilla note is smooth and inviting, providing a luscious, enveloping aroma that immediately captivates the senses. It sets a comforting, luxurious foundation for the fragrance.

Gradually, the scent evolves as the toasted almonds come forward. Imagine the aroma of almonds being gently toasted, releasing their nutty, warm fragrance. This note adds a sophisticated, slightly roasted quality to the fragrance. The toasted almonds bring a depth and richness that complements the vanilla, creating a scent profile that feels both comforting and indulgent.

As the fragrance continues to develop, the hazelnut note makes its presence known. Visualize the rich, nutty scent of hazelnuts, often associated with chocolate confections or gourmet coffee. The hazelnut adds a smooth, creamy element to the blend, enhancing the overall warmth and richness of the fragrance. It pairs beautifully with the toasted almonds, enriching the scent with its nutty, slightly sweet undertones.

Throughout the fragrance, the vanilla remains a constant, smooth backdrop, binding the almond and hazelnut notes together. The vanilla’s creaminess enhances the nutty richness, creating a harmonious blend that feels both elegant and cozy. The overall effect is a beautifully balanced fragrance that combines the sweetness of vanilla with the deep, warm notes of toasted almonds and hazelnuts.

Vanille Amande offers an indulgent olfactory experience that feels both luxurious and comforting. It is a scent that evokes the warmth of toasted nuts, the creaminess of vanilla, and the richness of a well-crafted dessert, making it a perfect choice for those who enjoy a sophisticated and soothing fragrance.

In contrast, Comptoir Sud Pacifique's Vanille Amande from 1992 features notes of sweet almonds, almond cream, and absolute of Tahitian vanilla.

The CSP fragrance opens with an immediate impression of soft, airy sweetness. The almond note presented here is not the sharp, marzipan-like bitterness sometimes associated with almond accords; instead, it is a delicate, milky sweetness, resembling freshly ground sweet almonds blended with a trace of powdered sugar. A soothing, powdery warmth emerges, tactile in its softness, reminiscent of the gentle touch of cashmere against the skin.

As the composition develops, the almond impression deepens into a richer, more textured heart dominated by almond cream. This stage introduces a more gourmand nuance, comparable to the scent of a luxurious pastry filling or freshly whipped almond milk warmed by the sun. The almond cream effect is created through a combination of natural almond accords and carefully selected aroma chemicals, notably heliotropin (also known as piperonal). Heliotropin imparts a sweet, slightly spicy vanilla-almond aroma, enhancing the creaminess of the composition and rounding its edges without allowing the fragrance to become overly cloying or heavy.

In the drydown, the absolute of Tahitian vanilla begins to unfold, seamlessly weaving into the almond foundation. Tahitian vanilla (Vanilla tahitensis) differs significantly from the more common Vanilla planifolia (typically sourced from Madagascar). Cultivated in the humid, fertile environment of French Polynesia, Tahitian vanilla develops under unique climatic conditions that impart a softer, fruitier, and more floral character. It is often described as carrying nuances of cherry, plum, and warm blossoms, distinguishing it from the darker, woodier, and more smoky profile of Madagascar vanilla.

Within Vanille Amande, the Tahitian vanilla absolute lends a tender, creamy radiance to the fragrance. It avoids the baked or caramelized tones that sometimes dominate vanilla compositions, instead offering a sun-warmed, naturally sweet character that elevates the almond notes with an effortless, tropical lightness. Supporting this effect are subtle synthetic elements—such as vanillin and ethyl vanillin—which bolster the natural vanilla’s sweetness and creaminess. These synthetics enhance the overall richness and diffusion of the fragrance without obscuring the delicate floral qualities inherent to the Tahitian variety.

The final composition of CSP's Vanille Amande is a seamless blend of sweet almond, silky almond cream, and radiant Tahitian vanilla. Rather than presenting as a heavy gourmand, it offers a gentle, luxurious whisper of warmth and quiet sensuality. The fragrance evokes an atmosphere of soft golden light, suggestive of a languid afternoon by the sea, blending edible comfort with ethereal elegance.

While both Victoria's Secret Vanille Amande (1994) and Comptoir Sud Pacifique Vanille Amande (1992) share the same name, suggesting a blend of vanilla and almond, the two fragrances present noticeably different interpretations of this theme. On the surface, they both promise a sweet, comforting experience — a cocoon of creamy vanilla paired with nutty richness — but the way they deliver it reflects different artistic styles, different ingredient qualities, and even different emotions.

Victoria’s Secret Vanille Amande feels more playful and dessert-like. It leans heavily into a comforting, almost edible territory, emphasizing toasted almonds and hazelnuts alongside the vanilla. The almonds are more roasted and warm, evoking the scent of nuts fresh from the oven, while the hazelnut introduces a smooth, café-confectionery vibe. Here, the vanilla acts as a luscious backdrop, creamy and sweet, holding everything together. It’s an accessible, cozy fragrance — meant to feel familiar, soft, and indulgent, with an almost buttery texture. The style is overtly gourmand, designed for those who want to feel delicious and wrapped in warmth, with a hint of flirtation that aligns perfectly with the Victoria’s Secret brand image of the mid-1990s.

In contrast, Comptoir Sud Pacifique’s Vanille Amande is more refined and streamlined. Rather than playing with multiple nutty elements, it focuses deeply on the purity of sweet almonds and almond cream, anchored by the luxurious and rare Tahitian vanilla absolute. The overall effect is softer, silkier, and more luminous. There is no roasted or toasted edge here — the almond note is creamy, milky, and pure, while the Tahitian vanilla brings a naturally floral, slightly fruity elegance. The addition of gentle aroma chemicals like heliotropin and vanillin enhances the natural notes without overwhelming them, creating a fragrance that feels lighter, more sun-drenched, and sophisticated. Vanille Amande by CSP is less about indulgence and more about a serene, almost tropical escape, in keeping with the brand’s "voyage" inspiration.

In terms of similarities, both fragrances are built around the irresistible combination of vanilla and almond, delivering warmth, sweetness, and a sense of comfort. Both could easily be described as "skin scents" — they invite intimacy and closeness rather than projecting loudly into a room. Each would appeal to someone seeking a cozy, nurturing olfactory experience.

However, the key differences lie in the depth and treatment of the notes. Victoria’s Secret’s version is fuller-bodied, heavier, and more gourmand, thanks to the addition of toasted hazelnuts and a richer vanilla accord. It’s sweeter, possibly slightly synthetic in places, aiming for an accessible and crowd-pleasing experience. Meanwhile, Comptoir Sud Pacifique’s version is cleaner, silkier, and more elegant — the use of Tahitian vanilla gives it a more natural, slightly exotic nuance, and the almond notes are gentler, like fresh cream rather than baked goods.

If you are seeking something comforting, nostalgic, and overtly cozy — a fragrance that feels like wearing a soft cashmere sweater and savoring a warm dessert — Victoria’s Secret’s Vanille Amande would be the natural choice.
If you want something a little more luminous, natural, and easy-breezy — a fragrance that feels like a gentle island breeze carrying the scent of vanilla orchards and fresh almonds — Comptoir Sud Pacifique’s Vanille Amande will be more satisfying.

In short: Victoria’s Secret offers comfort food for the soul, while Comptoir Sud Pacifique offers a sunlit, silky escape.


Vanille Musc:


Vanille Musc translates to "Vanilla Musk" in English, suggesting a fragrance that harmoniously blends the creamy sweetness of vanilla with the deep, sensual warmth of musk. The name evokes a scent profile that is both inviting and subtly exotic, combining the comforting essence of vanilla with the complex, enigmatic qualities of musk.

As you experience Vanille Musc, the initial impression is a rich, creamy vanilla. Picture the luxurious scent of pure vanilla bean, its sweet, warm aroma filling the air. The vanilla note is smooth and enveloping, offering a comforting sweetness that immediately draws you in. It has a slightly buttery quality that feels both indulgent and soothing.

As the fragrance evolves, the musk begins to emerge. Imagine the deep, sensual scent of musk, which is often described as warm, animalistic, and subtly earthy. This musk note adds a layer of complexity to the fragrance, creating a contrast to the sweetness of the vanilla. The musk introduces a sensual, almost seductive element that enriches the overall scent experience.

The combination of vanilla and musk creates a harmonious blend where the sweetness of the vanilla is tempered by the warmth and depth of the musk. The vanilla remains the dominant note, providing a creamy, comforting backdrop, while the musk adds a sophisticated, slightly mysterious edge. This interplay between the sweet and the warm creates a fragrance that feels both elegant and intimate.

Overall, Vanille Musc is a beautifully balanced fragrance that captures the essence of vanilla in a new light. The richness of the vanilla is enhanced by the depth of the musk, resulting in a scent that is both comforting and alluring. It is a fragrance that invites you to linger, offering a warm, sensual experience that is both timeless and captivating.


Vanille Abricot:


Vanille Abricot translates to "Vanilla Apricot" in English, suggesting a fragrance that blends the warm, creamy essence of vanilla with the bright, fruity sweetness of apricots. The name evokes a scent profile that is both inviting and fresh, combining the comforting aroma of vanilla with the juicy, tangy notes of ripe apricots.

Upon first breathing in Victoria’s Secret’s Vanille Abricot, you are immediately enveloped in a golden, creamy cloud of vanilla — rich and caressing, like warm silk against the skin. This is not merely the familiar sweetness of a bakery vanilla, but the deeper, more complex aroma of true vanilla bean, likely inspired by the lush pods of Madagascar's Vanilla planifolia. Madagascar vanilla is prized worldwide for its creamy, slightly floral nuance, distinguishing it from the drier, spicier vanillas of Mexico or the woody, leathery notes found in Tahitian varieties. Here, the natural warmth of vanilla is further enhanced by the soft hum of vanillin — an essential aroma molecule responsible for vanilla’s comforting scent. Vanillin amplifies the pod’s natural creaminess, while a touch of ethyl vanillin may be at play as well, adding a slightly brighter, sweeter lift that gives the vanilla an airy, almost crystalline quality without overwhelming it.

As the vanilla's plush embrace settles, the apricot note begins to emerge, radiant and mouthwatering. The scent of apricot here is captured at its peak ripeness: lush, honeyed, with the faintest whisper of tartness that keeps the fruit from becoming overly saccharine. If natural apricot essence was used, it would likely be derived from fruits grown in the sun-drenched orchards of the Mediterranean, where the intense light and arid conditions concentrate the fruit’s sugars and aromatic compounds, producing an apricot that smells richer, more nectar-like than those from cooler climates. In perfumery, the apricot effect can be softened and sweetened further with molecules like gamma-undecalactone, a creamy, peachy lactone that lends a velvety, milky tone to fruit notes, weaving seamlessly into the soft vanilla base.

The interplay between the vanilla and apricot is masterfully balanced. The juicy brightness of the apricot cuts through the vanilla’s heavier, buttery facets, while the vanilla, in turn, bathes the apricot in a creamy glow, rounding its tart edges and enhancing its natural sweetness. It feels as though you are biting into a sun-warmed apricot glazed with a thin veil of vanilla sugar — indulgent yet impossibly fresh.

A delicate undercurrent of candy-like sweetness lingers on the skin, suggesting the quiet presence of synthetic gourmand notes — likely traces of ethyl maltol, famed for its spun-sugar, caramelized fruit aroma. Ethyl maltol subtly anchors the composition, smoothing the transition between the fruit and the vanilla without adding heaviness. It gives the fragrance a light-hearted, almost playful finish, evoking the nostalgic comfort of childhood treats while keeping the structure sophisticated.

In Vanille Abricot, Victoria’s Secret created more than just a fruity vanilla; they conjured a vivid sensory journey: from the sunlit orchards of the Mediterranean to the tropical fields of Madagascar. The fragrance shimmers between indulgence and freshness, sweetness and radiance — offering a scent that feels as cozy as a favorite sweater yet as bright and lively as a summer morning.

By contrast, Comptoir Sud Pacifique's Vanille Abricot from 1993 is a sweet oriental fragrance created by Ambré Claude Boggi & Jacques Lions, it has delicious notes of apricot, papaya, jackfruit, essence of apricot, papaya, jackfruit, sprinkled with vanilla and candy sugar."

CSP's Vanille Abricot unfolds like the memory of a sun-drenched orchard at the peak of ripeness. From the first moment, the fragrance bursts open with the vivid, golden scent of apricot. This is a succulent, slightly fuzzy apricot aroma—luscious and warm—redolent of ripe fruit plucked straight from the tree, its skin still warm from the afternoon sun. The apricot note is heightened by natural essence, extracted from the fruit’s flesh. Compared to the sharper, greener nuances found in apricots grown in cooler European climates, tropical apricot essence brings a fuller, honeyed richness, almost syrupy in texture.

Layered beneath the apricot comes the lush, exotic heart of papaya. Papaya’s scent is soft and creamy, with a whisper of musky sweetness and a faint green edge that keeps it from feeling too heavy. Here, the papaya note feels almost like the golden flesh melting on the tongue, balancing between juicy freshness and gentle fermentation. The inclusion of natural papaya essence gives the fragrance a round, tropical warmth, and a slightly vegetal facet that deepens the fruitiness, avoiding any suggestion of artificiality.

Then emerges jackfruit—a rarity in perfumery, prized for its complex, almost paradoxical aroma. Jackfruit smells simultaneously of pineapple, banana, and a soft creamy sweetness, tinged with an almost bubblegum-like nuance. Native to South and Southeast Asia, jackfruit grows in humid, lush environments, where the rich soil and abundant rain infuse the fruit with an intensity and complexity difficult to replicate elsewhere. In Vanille Abricot, jackfruit brings a surprising twist: a bright, almost candied brightness that lifts the denser apricot and papaya, preventing the composition from collapsing into simple syrupy sweetness.

All of these succulent fruits are generously sprinkled with vanilla—the comforting backbone of the fragrance. In this composition, vanilla is warm, creamy, and slightly floral rather than overly smoky or gourmand. Likely sourced from Madagascar (the world’s foremost producer of Vanilla planifolia), this vanilla contributes a familiar sweetness but with a soft, almost airy quality. Natural vanilla is supported by synthetics such as vanillin and possibly ethyl vanillin, molecules that enhance the sweet, creamy facets while extending the fragrance’s lasting power. Vanillin delivers a cozy, true vanilla note, while ethyl vanillin pushes the aroma into a slightly more diffusive, sugary direction—perfectly suited to underscore the "candy sugar" accord.

Finally, the effect of candy sugar drifts over the entire fragrance like a dusting of crystallized sweetness. This is not a heavy caramel or burnt sugar, but rather the crisp, almost powdery scent of spun sugar, light and bright. To create this sensation, perfumers often rely on molecules such as maltol and ethyl maltol, both of which have a toasty, cotton-candy aroma. Ethyl maltol, in particular, would amplify the jackfruit’s playful fruitiness while blending seamlessly into the vanilla base, giving the entire fragrance an irresistible, mouth-watering charm without tipping into cloying excess.

The result is a composition that feels joyful and radiant: a sunlit fantasy of orchard fruits, tropical sweetness, and sheer vanilla comfort. Vanille Abricot captures the carefree spirit of endless summer days, blending the indulgence of ripe fruit with the nostalgic simplicity of sugar and vanilla, suspended in a soft, creamy cloud.

At first encounter, Victoria’s Secret’s Vanille Abricot and Comptoir Sud Pacifique’s Vanille Abricot seem to speak the same language — both are sweet, indulgent fragrances that pair the warmth of vanilla with juicy fruit. Yet, once you experience them side by side, their differences become unmistakable. Both fragrances build their character around a comforting, creamy vanilla note and a bright splash of fruitiness, creating an overall mood that is youthful, inviting, and deliciously easy to wear.

However, Victoria’s Secret’s Vanille Abricot takes a more minimalistic, straightforward approach. The scent highlights the creamy, softly sweet vanilla paired with ripe, succulent apricot. The result is simple and cozy, almost like the scent of vanilla frosting folded with a hint of golden apricot preserves. It wears close to the skin, offering a sheer sweetness that never becomes overwhelming. The candy-like softness that blooms after the initial fruits fade gives it an even lighter, more playful quality. It feels casual, intimate, and easygoing — a fragrance that wraps you in a gentle, edible glow perfect for everyday comfort.

In contrast, Comptoir Sud Pacifique’s Vanille Abricot takes the idea and expands it into something more lush, layered, and exotic. Here, apricot is joined by the tropical vibrancy of papaya and the creamy, banana-like fullness of jackfruit. These fruits, each rich with nectarous sweetness, create a far more opulent and juicy opening. The vanilla that follows is more rounded and natural, with a silky, decadent texture that feels closer to real vanilla pods steeped in sugar and cream. The result is a scent that feels like slipping away to a sun-warmed island — richer, more complex, and lingering far longer on the skin.

In terms of mood, Victoria’s Secret’s version is best described as a cozy sweetness — easy to reach for and light enough for casual settings. Comptoir Sud Pacifique’s interpretation, by contrast, feels like a tropical escape bottled — radiant, indulgent, and a touch more luxurious. Longevity and projection also differ: Victoria’s Secret’s scent is soft and intimate, while Comptoir Sud Pacifique’s version tends to project more noticeably and stay vibrant for hours.

While they share the same name and a love of vanilla and apricot, the Victoria’s Secret Vanille Abricot is a whisper of sweetness, while Comptoir Sud Pacifique’s Vanille Abricot is a full, lush song of tropical delight. Each has its own charm, depending on whether you are seeking comforting simplicity or a more layered, sun-drenched indulgence.

Bottles:


The Vanille Abricot collection featured two distinct formats: the 3.3 oz Eau de Parfum Spray and the 0.45 oz Perfume Oil Splash.

The 3.3 oz Eau de Parfum Spray offers a generous amount of fragrance in a convenient spray bottle, ideal for daily use or for those who enjoy a more pronounced scent application. This size provides a balance between longevity and portability, making it suitable for both home use and travel. The spray mechanism ensures an even distribution of the fragrance, allowing you to envelop yourself in the warm, creamy vanilla and juicy apricot blend with each application.

The 0.45 oz Perfume Oil Splash comes in a smaller, more concentrated form. This perfume oil is perfect for those who prefer a more intimate and personal fragrance experience. The oil splash format allows for precise application, often used on pulse points such as the wrists and neck. The concentrated nature of the perfume oil means that a little goes a long way, offering a long-lasting scent with a richer, more intense aroma compared to the Eau de Parfum Spray.

Together, these two formats cater to different preferences and needs, ensuring that fans of Vanille Abricot can enjoy their beloved fragrance in both a versatile spray and a luxurious oil form.


Fate of the Fragrances:


The Essences de Voyage line by Victoria's Secret, launched in 1994, was a notable addition to the brand's fragrance offerings. The collection was inspired by the calming allure of vanilla and exotic essences from around the world, reflecting a sense of wanderlust and indulgence. It sought to transport users to distant locales through its carefully crafted scents.

Despite its promising start, the Essences de Voyage line was discontinued in 1997. The discontinuation marked the end of this particular series, as Victoria's Secret shifted its focus and explored new fragrance directions. During its brief presence, the line's unique concept of blending vanilla with global essences captured a niche market, but evolving trends and consumer preferences likely influenced the decision to phase it out.

The Essences de Voyage line remains a memorable part of Victoria's Secret's fragrance history for those who experienced it. Its departure from the market highlights the dynamic nature of the fragrance industry, where collections often come and go in response to changing tastes and trends. Despite being discontinued, the Essences de Voyage line continues to be remembered fondly by those who appreciated its evocative, travel-inspired scents.


CLICK HERE TO FIND ESSENCES DE VOYAGE BY VICTORIA'S SECRET ON EBAY!


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10 comments:

  1. Who manufactured this line of perfume for Victoria's Secret

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    1. I have an unused bottle of the Vanille Caramel in the original box. On the back it states "Distributed by GRYPHON DEVELOPEMENT, INC. NEW YORK, NY 10153" so would that be what you are looking for?

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  2. This line was exquisite. I dream of the Vanille Caramel. I wish they would bring this back!

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  3. I have an unused bottle in original box of the Vanille Caramel Eau De Parfum, 3.3 oz. I received this back in the mid 1990's but never wore it. Is the color a darker brown? Honestly I didn't even open it up till I saw this website, so not sure. It smells pretty darn nice!

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  4. These were my friends and I favorite scents in High School. I was so devastated when they discontinued...they really need to bring these back! I cant find anything like them!

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  5. More specifically, it's the Secrets de Vanille by Seveline "Vanille de Madagascar" eau de parfum that is the same as Vanille Caramel. Apparently there are several scents in the "Secrets de Vanille" line.

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    1. AWESOME! I've been looking for ANYTHING close to this scent for YEARS.

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  6. Has anyone found something close to vanilla peche? I miss this fragance so much!

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  7. I've been searching and searching for vanilla pome and no luck.. would buy an obscene amount of they brought this line back

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  8. Vanilla Francis was the best....I still miss it

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